INDEX

Equipment Equipment Q&A  [1-20]   [21-40]  [41-60]  [61-80]  [81-100]  [101-120]   [121-140]  [141-160]  [161-180   [181-200]  [201-220]  [221-240]  [241-260  [261-280]  [281-300  [301-320]  [321-340]  [361-380]   [381-400]  [401-420]  [421-440] Robin March 27, 2006 Philadelphia PA first i want to say congrats on your win today. i have 4 bowling balls all drilled the same way. i was told by someone that i think is a good bowler that this was wrong. my bowling balls should not be all drilled the same way. i want to get the new ball called "The One" and before i get it drilled i want to know if this is a good thing or a bad thing to do? i roll a 15lb ball standing on the 17 board and rolling across the 10 board. my ball goes long and then flares into the pocket. (at least when i hit my mark. what do you think of "the one" ball? i also do tournaments during the summer. i always do lilac in N.Y and hamtract in Detroit. thanks for all your help. Robin Hi Robin, I do drill most of my balls with similar layouts. But I also try to have different surfaces on them for different lane conditions. I don't know anything about 'The One'. I would ask your local pro shop operator their opinion on how to drill any future bowling balls. You might also want to learn how to play different parts of the lane. Most lane conditions are different and one shot won't work everywhere. Tom March 22, 2006 Brigham City UT Last weekend in your semi-final match against Norm Duke, you made a ball change in the fourth frame that looked to be a good move. It didn't over react like your pink ball and made a nice subtle turn into the pocket for a srike. I'm just curious as to why you didn't stay with this ball and kick Norm's butt all over the alley? P.S. Your one of my favorite bowlers of all time and I actually did meet you in Ogden, Utah many years ago. Don't worry, your 41 is next time around, with 42 back to back. Hi Tom, That ball change in the 4th frame was a shiny ball. It went a bit straighter than I wanted even though it struck. I think how I played the lanes at the end was how I needed to play the lanes. Thanks for your support. David March 21, 2006 Fort Smith AR. Dear Walter Ray I was an avid bowler back in the late 70's early 80's, I bowled in leagues 3 nights a week and carried around a 180 average. I was a down and in player just like you bowl, I have been out of bowling since about 1987. I would like to get back into bowling, so much has changed since then, my question is what kind of bowling ball should I start with the ones that I have are way out of date (soft rubber and plastic) for todays lane conditions. Also as a side note I was reading in paige's tales that you guys were stuck out on the cruise ship due to hurricane frances, my wife and I were stuck to on one of the cruise ships out there were suppose to come back on Saturday came back Monday. Hi David, You could start with one of your old bowling balls, but it probably isn't going to hook much on today's lane conditions. You will want to get one of the newer balls so that you can get a bit of hook. There are many balls to choose from and most will do a good job for you. Your local pro shop would be my best advice for equipment suggestions. Good luck and welcome back to the game! Ron February 19, 2006 Manhattan KS Hi Walter Ray, I had two related questions: 1. Over the course of the last several months, I've spent a lot of time and money to upgrade my bowling ball arsenal. I've now got a lot of the best-known, high-performance bowling balls out there. However, the "Ferraris" of the high-performance balls tend to be heavy-oil balls where I only bowl on medium conditions. (Some would argue that our house's conditions are even light-oil.) In any event, I often find my high-performance equipment working beautifully in the first game (particularly if it's fresh oil), but that life gets ugly by the third game where the perfect strike in the first game is now cutting right through the nose for a split. You know, my heavy-oil, high-performance equipment has to be put away by the third game (or, egads, by the second game). I've noticed a lot of the other guys do this, too, where they buy the most expensive, hookiest, high-performance heavy-oil ball out there, completely ignoring the fact that it's not heavy oil. It just seems like one is just trying to put square pegs in round holes if it isn't designed for the condition. I just wondered how you handle your bowling ball arsenal and ball strategy. I mean, will you use a heavy-oil ball if it's all the rage these days on the "wrong" condition and figure you can get it into the pocket with a layer of polish, savvy drilling, different hand positions, different line, more or less speed, etc.??? Or is this a big no-no for you and you will you simply use a medium-oil ball on a medium-oil condition to avoid a lot of headaches even if the ball might not be the "it" ball these days or might not quite have the carrying power? Do you have any good rules of thumb on ball strategy? I know some top bowlers (like Pete Weber) seem to be very liberal in their ball strategy, feeling quite comfortable employing a different ball for each lane and are very quick to change balls if they even so much as get tapped whereas other top bowlers seem to be much more reluctant to change balls if they start running into problems. I know often I like the high-performance ball a lot at the beginning of a series, but when I put the high-performance ball away, I'll really not satisfied with the less-agressive, "Plan B" balls I have. Any good rules of thumb? 2. On the ESPN telecasts, often a lot of time is devoted to talking about the lane conditions and the bowling balls, about ball-changing strategy and the like. It seems these days that the equipment one throws seems to be more important than ever where it seems to be implied that if you don't have the best equipment out there, you simply can't compete. What percentage would you say does the equipment play in one's success? Is it a much higher percentage in 2006 than in say, 1986? I know often these days, it seems like one often feels if they could only afford this ball or that ball, it would change them from a 150 player to a 220 player. Thanks. Ron Hi Ron, The tour bowls on a lot more oil than most houses across the country with very few exceptions. The other thing is that the pros on tour have some of the highest rev rates so their balls will hook a lot even on all of the oil that the tour uses. I throw the ball much straighter than most of the other pros, so I tend to use much more aggressive covers than the 'crankers'. We do have some conditions which do hook a bit more. But I still hardly ever need to use less aggressive bowling balls because there is so much oil. I would say that ball selection is pretty important, but there is no ball that is going to help someone go from 150 to even 200. Depending on the lane conditions a different ball might make a few pins in average difference. I don't change balls as much as other bowlers do as I am more likely to change my line or even speed if I need to. Kendra February 3, 2006 Brownwood Texas Walter Ray, I was wondering what kind of ball you would suggest for a back-ball thrower, right now I own my grandmothers old hand me down crusher bowling ball that I had redrilled to fit my hand. Lately, I have improved my bowling dramaticly, bowling a 248 score, and a minimun of a 134 score. The reason I ask about the ball is because i was wondering if maybe a ball that is "built" for a back up bowler would help keep my game more consistant. Any suggestion would be great...Please let me know. Kendra Hi Kendra, I don't really think that there is a certain type of ball for a back up bowler. However, you might want to ask your local pro shop operator about how to drill a ball for you. It might help to get a 'newer' ball which should grip the lane a lot more depending on where you bowl. Throwing a back up ball is kind of like bowling a left handed, so a ball drilled for a back up ball should have a different set up. Good luck and hang in there! John February 15, 2006 Buffalo NY Hello Walter Ray, I am bowling the qualifier on Feb. 22 in Cheektowaga , NY at Thruway Lanes. I wanted to ask you two questions. Number One do you use tape on both sides of your thumb in the thumb hole? Two if you plan on bowling the tournament on Feb. 22 - 26 in Cheektowaga , NY would you mind giving me a few pointers after bowling. Reason being I want to join the PBA and tour with the top pros? Also I am NOT asking about ball layouts, but do you think in your opinon I need to know about coverstocks and ball layouts to be competitive on the tour? Thank you for your time. John III Hi John, I use tape on the back side of my thumb hole and a cork insert on the inside. You don't need to know everything about bowling balls, but you should have an idea of what might do what. You should bowl in some regional tournaments first to get some experience as I am sure you now realize that the pros do bowl pretty well. Mark February 14, 2006 Alden NY Walter Ray, I think you are a very good bowler.I have a question that I keep bringing up on the PBA forums.Do you think that you would have 40 titles if not for resin equipment?Also do you think it is fair that you can now carry as good or better than Pete Weber and Robert Smith due to resin equipment?My last question is do you think that resin equipment improved your game more than any other professional bowler's? Hi Mark, I don't read forums due to the fact that most of the comments are made by people who don't know much. I have no way of knowing if I would have won 40 titles (or even more) if there were no resin bowling balls. Personally I believe it was the lane conditions that we bowled on that gave me an advantage at times. There are other lane conditions that tend to negatively affect my performance. If resin balls never came out, then we probably wouldn't be bowling on the lane conditions that we bowl on today. I don't think that I am the only one to benefit. I don't think that resin balls give me better carry than Pete Weber or Robert Smith. If I (or any other player) had carry that was significantly better, everyone would be doing what that person was doing. Everybody is a product of their environment. When I learned to bowl, in the early 80's, I hooked the ball a fair amount. I later learned how to throw the ball straighter and found out that I normally throw the ball better when I throw it straighter. I can't hook the ball like Pete or Robert. By the same token, they have trouble trying to throw the ball as straight as I do. Lane conditions are, in my opinion, a much greater contributor to what style of player bowls well than is equipment. I don't like the excessive amounts of oil that we bowl on tour. But most of the other pros hook the ball so much that the people in charge of lane conditions seem to think that it is necessary. Don February 14, 2006 Alpharetta GA I bowl a 16 lb Strike Zone, finger tip w/ inserts and thumb sleeve. Recently it was damaged in the machinery and subsequently "fixed" by the house pro shop where I bowl. However, there is now a flat spot about 2" in diameter around my thumb and my normal line runs across my thumb hole. When bowled when the lanes are quiet, the thump on the spot is quite noticeable. My average has been steadily declining since the ball was "fixed" and I wonder can that flat spot really affect my line enough to be the cause? The pro shop has said they can do no more to fix it. The center management seems to think they could plug and re-drill the thumb to remove the flat area. I would just like another professional opinion. Thanks, Don Keith Hi Don, If your ball has a 'flat' spot on it, that can change the way it rolls. Does that mean that it won't work, not necessarily? But if the center management thinks that they can plug and re-drill the ball then let them. Will February 12, 2006 Roxboro NC Hi Walter Ray, I'd like to know where do you find 60's,& 70's bowling balls. I'd like to have one to bowling with, with a hook that goes from the 8r to the 20r. And I'd like to meet you, when will you be in South Boston, Virgina at the World of Sports Fun Bowling Alley. Thank You for your information. Will Coleman Hi Will, Old bowling balls are very difficult to find. You could try the internet and ask around for old ball distributors. But bowling balls from the 60's and 70's aren't going to hook very much, so they really wouldn't be very effective on today's lane conditions. As far as a hook, that is something you need to develop. You might want to take some lessons. I don't have any plans to stop near your hometown in the foreseeable future. Ken January 10, 2006 Philadelphia PA Thanks for all your help in the past Walter Ray, I have actually become a better ABT tournament bowler due to your advice. I was wondering, I know your favorite layout for your ball is with the pin generally around 1 or 2 oclock. Where is your CG generally, in the palm of your hand? And if you use a mass bias ball where is it generally located for you? Thanks Ken Hi Ken, I would say that the CG is normally in the palm of my hand. As far as a mass bias ball, I couldn't say as I don't pay attention to that. Dion January 8, 2006 Carroll IA Hi, I have a columbia 300, yellow dot, bleeder ball #6H27676. It weighs 16# and has never been drilled with the original box all in good condition.What do you think it's worth? And how old is it? Hi Dion, I couldn't even begin tell you what that ball is worth. Only a collector would really be interested in having one. You might post something on the PBA's website. Those balls were made in the late 70's. Back then, those were the balls everybody wanted, but now it would only be use full as a spare ball. Sorry, guess I wasn't much help. Dave January 4, 2006 Cleveland OH HI WALTER RAY! I AM 40 YEARS OLD AND WAS A 25 YEAR LEAGUE BOWLER UNTIL I HAD A BACK INJURY AND HAD TO HAVE BACK SURGERY.I HAVEN'T BOWLED IN 3 YEARS,SINCE MY SURGERY AND I REALLY MISS IT. I AM GOING TO TRY AND GET BACK IN THE GAME BUT I WILL NEED TO USE LIGHTER EQUIPMENT. I ALLWAYS USED 16LB. EQUIPMENT FROM THE AGE OF 12 UNTIL MY INJURY.MY QUESTION IS HOW MUCH CARRY DO YOU THINK I WILL LOSE SWITCHING TO 14 OR 15LB.EQUIPMENT?I WAS A 215AVG. BOWLER I BOWLED 2 LEAGUES A WEEK,AND I AM RIGHT HANDED. NOT BOWLING IS SO DEPRESSING,IT WAS A BIG PART OF MY LIFE AND I REALLY MISS IT.BUT I DON'T WANT TO EMBARRIS MY SELF I AM VERY COMPETITIVE,PLEASE GIVE ME SUGGESTIONS! GOOD LUCK THE SECOND HALF OF THE PBA SEASON,I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING YOU BECOME THE ALL TIME CAREER TITLES LEADER,I TAPE EVERY SHOW. SIGNED A TRUE BOWLING FAN,DAVE.... Hi Dave, You shouldn't notice much difference with a 15 # ball. I can't say for sure about 14 #'s. But that might also work just as well, especially if you hook the ball quite a bit. Allen December 22, 2005 Taylor MI Hello Paige and Walter Ray, I am having problems understanding my equipment on lane conditions. I bowl with above average speed and revs. I decided to purchase a heavy oil ball (X-Factor Vertigo). It's a solid reactive ball drilled aggressive so I can play deep. The house I bowled at has very oily lanes. The ball didn't give me the reaction I wanted because I had to play down and in but that's fine as long as I get strikes. We switched houses and now the Vertigo barely hooks. I was forced to play straight up 10 and in, and even then I had to give it more hand or it would skate past the pocket. I thought I needed something like a particle ball with more hook. However, before I purchased another ball, I ask around the league to see if they think the lanes are oily and they actually thought it was very dry! I was baffled. I thought if a heavy oil ball is rolled on dry lanes, it will start to hook very early and go into the gutter. With this new info, I decided to try my old medium-light oil pearl reactive (Monster Frenzy) with the surface adjusted to a 1200 grit finish. Now this ball goes long and just "snaps" into the pocket with power. Every now and then, I'll switch balls to see if the Vertigo will out hook the Monster and it doesn't. It hits like mush. I just don't get it. Medium oil pearl (drilled non-aggressive) out hooks the heavy oil solid. Then people started telling me it's because the Vertigo is on the wrong condition and is burning up. Does it sound like it's burning up? The Vertigo doesn't even look like it grabbing the lane at all. I thought I knew when the ball was "burning up" because three years ago, I bowled on scorched lanes with an old reactive urethane and that ball just hooked the moment it hit the lanes and went into the gutter. After adjusting and moving way deep, I finally got the ball to go further down the lane and out to the 10th board and then it just burned up and hit the pocket like mush. I thought that is what happens when your ball is burning up. I'm sorry for the long question. You have answered my questions in the past and I do appreciate all your help! Thanks, Very confused bowler Allen Hi Allen, Without actually seeing you bowl, it is very difficult to know exactly what is happening. It could also be that your new ball has oil in its surface which will tame it down also. A more aggressive ball should hook more overall, but would hook sooner. So sometimes the shinier ball will hook more on the backend. I would ask your local pro shop operator. They should have a better understanding if they have seen you bowl and what conditions you are bowling on. Jeremy December 20, 2005 Imperial PA Dear Walter Ray, My father and I recently opened up a proshop and I have been experimenting with different drill patterns and techniques. I tend to put "spin" on the ball rather than stay under it no matter what I do. I average 200 but feel if I can break myself of this I will be in the two-teens easily. Do you know of any type of drill patterns or thumb pitches I may be able to use to try to counter-act the spinning effect? Hi Jeremy, I have never worked in a pro shop, so I don't know what drill patterns or thumb pitches might do to a spinners release if anything at all. It probably has more to do with your release. Your hand is so used to 'spinning' the ball that it would take a lot of work to change it. I would ask a good local coach to work with you, especially on camera so that you can see what it is you are doing and what might work for you. And then practice that new release once it is the way you want. Daniel December 18, 2005 South Boston Virginia Hi Walter Ray Im just wondering if getting your bowling ball resurfaced will take some of the hook out of the ball that it once had when u bought it? Thank you! Hi Daniel, Resurfacing a bowling ball should bring it back close to its original condition as the balls tend to absorb oil from the lanes. Dave December 13, 2005 Baltimore MD Why aren't you signed with a ball company now? Hi Dave, As I have said many times before. I haven't been offered what I think I am worth to be on a ball company staff. Ed December 9, 2005 Portland OR This is probely one of the most odd requests you will ever recieve. i am a huge fan and have been using a quantum helix for the past couple of years until mine recently broke and i love this ball but the problem im having is it was not the most popular ball so there was a very limited amount sold . so i was wondering if you still had yours i would love to buy it from you no matter how munch you want for it or if you know where i could get one . thanks in advance and i know this sounds crazy but you are the only other person i know of who might still have one Hi Ed, I don't have any of those balls. Your best bet is to post a message on some bowling site. I'm sure there are some out there somewhere! Good luck. Jamie December 5, 2005 Richmond IL I am a medium hook bowler comfortable with about 15 to 20 boards. I have been using the same ball now for about three/four years. (at least it seems) It is a Messanger Titanium Pearl which fit my style perfectly on the lanes for which I bowl. (Half and Half split wood and synthetic)The center has just changed the oil which they use on the lanes (I think to a cheaper brand) which seems to dry out faster in warmer weather and on the lanes closer to the doors of the center. (maybe due to constant moving air) As I know without really seeing me bowl it would be hard to suggest, but I am doing a lot of research trying to find a ball that may be comparable to what I already use, with but give me simular results to normal lanes with med oil. I am trying to find suggestions them research them all to make the right informed decision as I decided not to resign with my sponser as they weren't paying me what i was worth. (ok ok I never had a sponser, but I have liked Columbia products in the past) Thanks, Jamie Hi Jamie, If the lanes are hooking more, then maybe you should go to some older bowling balls. Most of the newer balls hook more than ever and it doesn't sound like that is what you want. Darryl December 4, 2005 Baltimore MD I am in the market to buy a few new bowling balls for different lane conditions. I currently use hammer bowling balls but am open to trying new balls. I see that you use dyno-thane balls. I am unfamiliar with them and was wondering which balls you would suggest. I usually like balls that go long and break in the back of the lane. Any suggestions? Good luck this year. Darryl Hi Darryl, You might want to ask a pro shop operator who has seen you bowl and is familiar with the lane conditions you bowl on. Good luck to you! Tyler November 17, 2005 WOULD YOU PREFER A ROTO GRIP RSX-1 OVER A BRUINSWICK AXIS???IM JUST CURIOUS BECAUSE I HAVE BOTH OF THEM AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT YOU WOULD CHOOSE... #1 12 YEAR OLD FAN, TYLER Hi Tyler, I don't use either one of those brands of bowling balls. Sorry. Equipment Q&A  [1-20]   [21-40]  [41-60]  [61-80]  [81-100]   [101-120]  [121-140]  [141-160]  [161-180  [181-200]  [201-220]  [221-240]  [241-260]  [261-280]  [281-300]  [301-320]  [321-340]  [361-380]   [381-400]  [401-420]  [421-440]